In a continuation of my stories of Bombay blog, I felt it was important to talk about one of my favourite spots in the city. This is the story of how that road came to be, its importance, and what it stands for.
As a metropolis, Bombay’s landscape changes with each passing hour. Still, I know that the city’s history is rooted in one of its oldest streets in the old British Fort area. This street extends from the iconic Gateway of India across the glistening Taj hotel, in front of some of the oldest surviving British residential buildings, to a magnificent old Banyan tree. To me, it’s also the place where I was fined for unknowingly taking off my face mask as I soaked in the Gateway’s iconic stonework and rounding the block’s corners at speed on my cycle, only to be stopped at a police nakabandi (barricade). But more than my own experiences here, learning about the history of this street has inspired in me stories and fantasies beyond my imagination. While its modern name may not be of great significance to its residents, the events that transpired here are distinctly part of Bombay lore.
Two hundred years ago, the road did not exist, and the seven islands of Bombay were no more than an archipelago inhabited by the indigenous Koli fisherman tribe. A fragmented Bombay was of little importance to its colonial powers, but the islands had the potential to be a hub of European-Asian trade, prompting the British and the local wealthy Parsi community to begin reclaiming land from the sea. Thus, this city was literally created out of thin air, and the road known as Wellington Pier, one of the foundational ‘bricks’ of South Bombay, began its life here.
Soon, it was central to the British cotton trade and mills as it was a jetty where smaller boats launched to meet larger freighters out in the emerald Arabian sea. It was also the ideal place to receive British dignitaries due to its proximity to the sea. King George V became the first monarch to set foot in India when he landed at the Pier in 1911. To commemorate this historical event, the Gateway of India was built to symbolize Britain’s authority in India. With its tri-domed arched design and exquisite foundation, the Gateway stands today as a remnant of British rule and a symbol of Indian freedom—the latter because of events that this icon has witnessed.
Integral to the Independence movement, the Wellington Pier has been the site of displays of the Indian principles of self-determination. The Taj hotel, built here in 1903, is one such example. It was built by Jamsetji Tata, one of Bombay’s wealthiest, after he was denied entrance into the British Watson hotel that catered exclusively to Europeans. The sign outside the Watson hotel, stating ‘Indians and dogs not allowed’, prompted Tata to build the Taj on the Pier to cater to the people of the city. The hotel became a symbol of the strength of the Indian people against racist British imperialism. The Watson hotel still stands to this day, off Kalaghoda, in ruins. While walking in the area, I spoke to a shopkeeper whose storefront stands where the entrance to the Watson’s exquisite restaurant used to be. He told me the BMC couldn’t decide if it wanted to demolish the hotel because of its historical importance, but judging by its melting exterior and certain rodent problem, the case for the hotel is becoming weaker and weaker. Where is beautiful façade and intricate exterior once stood, bamboo scaffolding has taken its place. I know it’s irrational even to compare the Taj and the Watson today, but seeing the glistening Taj at the Pier just increases my understanding of nationalism and how important it was to see an Indian-establishment at par with the West.
The Gateway also witnessed the hartals (protests) in 1928 against the Simon Commission and its governance reforms. The Commission had omitted to include Indian representation and had the power to decide if India needed ‘more reform’, a blow to the self-respect of Indians. The black flag protests with ‘Simon Go Back’ sprawled across banners stopped the Commission at the Gateway, refusing to let them in. Lathi charges (police violence) and the death of a prominent nationalist at the hands of the British did not stop the protesters, determined to save their country. These events were significant turning points in colonial history and part of the legacy of the Wellington Pier. It’s interesting to see how the Pier still acts as a platform for movements today. The protests against the controversial Citizen Amendment Act found a place at the Gateway, where an overwhelming youth population looked to voice their opinions and exercised the freedoms given to them by democracy. It was inspiring to participate in the movement as I learned the power of my voice.
But not every event on this street is one we look back fondly upon. The Bombay Riots of 1992 that spread across the city also touched the Gateway and the Pier. The physical damage to the city was overshadowed by the idea that communalism still existed in Independent India, and a unified future may be further away than we think. The coordinated terrorist attacks of 26th November 2008 on the Taj Mahal hotel by insurgents that entered through the Pier led to over 200 casualties and is one of the gravest acts of aggression modern Bombay has seen. The street has never been the same since. On a regular day, over a hundred policemen encircle the promenade, thoroughly checking every tourist and reforming their barricades to ensure they can glance inside every vehicle passing by.
The story of Wellington Pier is one of triumph and heartbreak, patriotism and remembrance. Despite the sea of beige and khakis that patrol it now, it is still my favourite spot in the city. The most exciting part of any trip to Alibaug (off the coast of Bombay) is getting to enter the Gateway premises. Every disembarkation from the passenger carrier is followed by an ultimately failed attempt to click a picture with the Gateway, with either other travellers or the police playing spoil-sport. Nevertheless, it would be no surprise to find me taking in the salty air as I stare out into the vast sea, eyes on the fishermen casting their nets into the ocean.
Gravityfalls 